Twenty years later: legends of the road

Travelling along the road to Saint James of Compostela in 2006, twenty years after my first (and only) pilgrimage on foot, I remember some of the stories we hear as we walk along. Each of the following themes has many versions, but I have picked those that I feel to be most interesting.

Birth of the city

One of the many legends tells how the apostle James goes to the roman province of Hispania to spread the Gospel. When he returns to Jerusalem, he is decapitated.

Two of his disciples, Athanasius and Theodore, lay his mortal remains in a boat without a rudder and sail off into the stormy sea, guided only by the current. They end up in the same place where James had been preaching the word of Jesus. There the disciples buried his body.

Time passes until one day the shepherd called Pelayo witnesses a shower of stars pouring over a field for many days. Guided by this rain, he comes upon the ruins of three tombs - those of James and his two disciples. King Alfonso II had a chapel built on the spot - “Campus Stellae” (Field of the Star) - and the pilgrimage began. Little by little the Latin name changed until it became Compostella.

The shell symbol

On the day that the boat carrying James’ mortal remains reached Galicia, a wild storm threatened to smash it against the rocky shoreline.

A man who was passing by saw the scene and rode into the sea on his horse to try to help the sailors; but he too falls victim to the fury of the elements and begins to drown. Believing that all is lost, he begs the heavens to have mercy on his soul.

At that very moment the storms abates and both the boat and the horseman are washed gently onto a beach. There the disciples Athanasius and Theodore notice that the horse is covered in a kind of shell, also known as “scallop”.

In homage to the heroic gesture, this shell becomes the symbol of the road, and can be found in buildings all along the way, on bridges, monuments, and specially on the pilgrims backpacks.

Trying to cheat destiny

On his way to Galicia during the Reconquista (the religious wars that ended with the Spanish expelling the Arabs from the Iberian Peninsula), Emperor Charlesmagne faced a traitor’s troops near Monjardin. Before the battle, he prays to Saint James, who reveals the names of 140 soldiers who would die in the fight. Charlesmagne leaves these men behind in camp and sets off to the combat.

Late that afternoon, victorious and without a single casualty in his army, he returned to discover that the camp had been set on fire and the 140 men were dead.

The gates of glory

On reaching Saint James of Compostela, the traveler has to obey a series of rituals, including placing his or her hand on a very beautiful portico at the front door of the church. Legend has it that this work of art was commissioned by King Ferdinand II in the year 1187 to an artisan called Matthew.

For years he worked the marble, even sculpting his own figure kneeling behind the centre column.

When Matthew ended his work, the inhabitants of the city decided to pierce his eyes so that he would never be able to repeat such a marvel anywhere else in the world.

Next text will be posted on the 3rd of May 2006

14 Responses to “Twenty years later: legends of the road”


  1. 1 Alberto El-Dirani

    …do we really know why we do what we do through our lifetime?!! Is their a purpose?!!
    These are two questions (of many) that have been hanging in midair continuously turning my life into an uncertain quest towards an unclear future.
    Does this mean I am unhappy..or feeling aimless? NO…Actually, these are the very questions that point the way towards what I really want and make my life worth living.

    Paulo, I hope that your journey now will leave you with more questions to ponder and more feelings of wonder.

    By the way, I am a teacher.

  2. 2 Paul Vincent Davey

    The boy who went looking for God
    Once upon a time there was a young boy who wanted to make acquaintance with God. He knew that it was going be a long way, so he packed his rucksack with chocolate bars and lemonade bottles and set off on his journey.
    He was three blocks away when he met an old lady. She sat on a bench in a park, just absently watching the pigeons. The boy sat down next to her and opened his rucksack. He was just about to take a sip of lemonade when he suddenly noticed how hungry the old lady looked, so he offered her a chocolate bar. She accepted the chocolate bar with gratitude and her face lit up with a broad smile. Her smile was so enchanting that the boy wanted to experience it again, so he offered her a bottle of lemonade too. Again, she gave him a captivating smile. The young boy was absolutely thrilled with this delightful interaction.
    They sat on the park bench beside each other for the entire afternoon, and they ate and laughed, but neither spoke a single word.
    As darkness set in, the young boy began to realize how tired he was. He stood up, started on his way, but after just a few paces he turned around, ran back to the old lady and gave her a warm embrace. Absolutely delighted at his gesture, she gave him her very best smile.
    The young boy arrived home shortly after, and his mother wondered why he looked so happy.
    She asked him: „What did you do today that makes you so happy”?
    He answered: „Today I ate lunch with God”.
    And before his mother could say a word, he continued: „Do you know what? She had the most beautiful smile that I have ever seen”!
    Meanwhile the old lady had also arrived home. She reflected upon her day and was extremely happy.
    Her son was also astounded at her change of facial expression, and wanted to know: „Mother, what did you do today that made you so happy”?
    She answered him without hesitation: „I sat in the park and at a chocolate bar with God”. And before her son could utter a word, she continued: „Do you know what”? “He is much younger than I imagined“!

    Dear Paolo,
    A journey or pilgrimage does not necessarily need to be long and arduous in order for it to enlighten us. I believe the moral of the story above is quite clearly;

    The shortest distance between 2 people…….is a smile!

    I pray that humanity wakes up and takes time to smell the roses, and smile at their fellow partners in time. Thank you for being you and for awakening so many emotions and dormant instincts in me and in many others. There is hope, and our hope lies in our children, god bless our children and help their parents to give them the LOVE they need to develop. God give you Paolo, strength and courage for your path, not only during this 20th anniversary year of your walk to Santiago d. Compostela, but for your entire journey on the path of life on this beautiful and wonderful planet.
    Sincerely, Paul

  3. 3 Christine

    How wonderful to be able to revist this journey.. I am so envious…… maybe one day ??

  4. 4 S.L.R.

    Thankyou
    for ‘walking the way’ -
    for explaining the history -
    for more inspiration* -
    and for the especially ‘poignant’ ending to this entry - giving the necessary jerk to wake up the reader from being lost in a comfortable historical reverie -
    r.e. the ‘very sharp’ literal *taking in of breath I involuntarily made on reading of the deliberate blinding of a dedicated artisan.

    Oh! the ways of mankind
    Oh! what power humans have to inflict suffering… or joy

    ….much food for reflective meditation

    Thankyou

    /////////////
    I have found the ‘Vipassina’ path relatively recently.
    Often called ‘the way’, I have been struck by many parallels to to Jesus’ path and that of many saints, and your use of terminaology like ‘the path and ‘the way’ which have been used since Buddhas own teaching as a analogy for what an individual must go through to achieve wisdom.
    After being immersed in Theravadin doctrine and practising meditation myself, I was struck, while re-reading your excellent recent book (the Zahir) last month, by many similarities in the books main themes, (especially the main character’s transformation) have to following the path to enlightenment as recorded by the ancient ones in Buddhist lore. Was this deliberate - or just because the base of all religion is, indeed in the nature of reality, and therefore ultimately, the same?

  5. 5 Abhishek Pareek

    Oh Destiny !

    Is it really impossible to change you, is it really. If it is really so why do men put in efforts. Isn’t it that no matter how hard you try you will get what you are destined to get, and if you are destined to get what you are destined to get why put in so many efforts…? There has to be an answer to it.

    Regards

  6. 6 Ekta Jolly

    Dear Sir,

    You think tht our destinies are written? Do u think, or believe rather, tht before we are born into this world, our purpose here and how things are going to turn out for us are predetermined? Thts wht i want to believe when i read the sotry above of cheating fate, or when things happen in my life tht i cannot explain or fathom….its then tht i am inclined to believe in words like Fate and Destiny.
    I am Indian, and in Indian mythology, u must be aware, as u have read the Mahabharata, tht there is this concept of a person sitting in heaven with a huge book, tht hold the accounts for every person on earth, wht has and wht will happen to him/her…..pretty disconcerting if u think abt it ,eh?

    In India, in a city called AGRA there is the world famous monument, The Taj Mahal……….the emperor who commisioned it and got it made……employed 20 thousand workers to do it and when it was completed, had their hands chopped off, so tht they could never duplicate such a thing of beauty ever again.

    Why do u reckon this is? are we compelled to protect a thing of beauty to the extent of vanity?

    Are you now, finding new stories everyday, along the same path…..?

    regards,
    …….ekta.

  7. 7 Christine Engel

    How inspiring is the Spirit on the Path of Simplicity?
    Pelayo sees, then follows the Spirit of the Rain to find ‘a treasure’ which, in time beyond time, will lead countless souls to their Path.

    I am inspired by the un-named man who without doubt follows his instinct and plunges into a stormy Ocean to save another and then finds his life at risk. What a gift to encounter the miracles of Redemption and Renewal.

    Chalesmagne teaches that while we are Warriors we cannot cheat the fates.

    Matthew, the artist what do you teach me? I cannot find comfort in remembering the piecering of the eyes of an artist unless it means to be turned from public adoration suspends us in the realms of eternal bliss in ‘what we see through the Eyes of the Soul?

    To-day my cousin a Monseignor in the Catholic Tradition came to visit. He brought a fellow Priest and two nuns into the little St Vincent de Paul shop where I work. They loved the Engery/Spirit of the shop and they indulged in a big spend before we went to lunch and laughed at ourselves. Finally we visited an art gallery to admire some of the first artistic impressions recorded by an Englishman of this mystical Land of Australia. English eyes had never seen ‘the Spirit of God so alive on the Land’ and the art is not good but reflective of how we cannot see unless our eyes are ‘innocent.’

    Is the Simplicity of Spirit the ability to respond without reason, indulge in the present moment while aware of the big picture?

    I wonder if De Compostella is the inspiration for the film Field of Dreams? When you build it he will come.

    For years my dream to build a template for housing the homeless has come constantly into my Dreaming yet I can’t afford to leave Australia let alone build for others. If I need know what I would do with my Sword…then I would achieve housing for the homeless…Too much to write about here.

    I thank this site for allowing me to ‘download’ my feelings. I know the Path comes to us wherever we are and by shedding my fears and doubts I am reclaiming the bigger picture.
    Blessings to Paulo and Everyone.
    walk gently

  8. 8 Leendert Van Velsen

    I just want to congratulate the author with his entrance in the blogosphere, I am sure all my friends over @ zaadz.com will be thrilled to hear this wonderful news. I will be visiting frequently and enjoy the presence of a great man in the world of blogs.

    Thank you Mr. Coelho

    Leendert Van Velsen
    leendert.zaadz.com
    The Netherlands

  9. 9 shyloh

    Yes I also congratulate you. Welcome and continue on your journey with love, light and much peace.

    shyloh gibbons
    shyloh.zaadz.com/
    Chicago, IL

  10. 10 Andrea Arañador

    Last week, I turned 23. I was asking myself whether I have already found contentment with what I have. Although, I am happy with how my life is…I cannot deny the fact that I am still in search of “greater” things. Maybe my age plays a big factor on this - I know that I am still young and the whole world awaits me.

    My journey is still not half-way. Still a lot of rocky and smooth roads, stops, detours…Just like with your journey now at the Santiago d. Compostela, I am also experiencing and learning a lot - reflections, hesitations (sometimes), joys, pains…but if there is one thing I can be sure of…it will be the fact that I will never give up. I will finish my own “journey”.

    I thank you for being a source of inspiration and strength. Your words have not only paved way for deeper reflections but have also inspired, enlightened and strengthened me in a lot of ways. Thank you.

    In a world that could be chaotic, it is refreshing to see someone have such a deep passion for writing and life. It constantly reminds me that life is beautiful…and that I need to nurture my beautiful and free spirit.

    Right now, I am into Zahir. And as I struggle with the question “What now? What’s next?”…I know that somehow, I would be able to learn a thing or two from the book that could hopefully, guide and inspire me in my search for the “answers”.

    Cheers,
    Andrea

  11. 11 TRAPPED_7

    How much have I missed you my dear Sir!
    I owe you much of my simple life…You’ve taken me to the most exotic places of my mind…and you always make me imagine being with you and with your thoughts as you travel all over the world…
    I remember myself almost 8 years ago when still young I read “The Alchemist” and after 1-2 months it became a real part of my life as all powers of the universe ( such as an earthquake in my country) changed my life and revealed me the truth path….

    Thank you for everything, my dear Sir.

    Have a great journey with endless passion and endless wandering…

    May God be with you, and may all of us share your thoughts and your feelings.

    Yours sincerely,
    Maria Greece

  12. 12 Mary Ho

    Dear Paulo

    As you take another journey to santiago, I will be walking my first step there in 2 weeks time. if not for your books, i would not have ever learnt of The Way, nor be ever so moved and inspired by the beautiful and emotive contents. I am taking life’s challenge to re-discover myself.

    Thank you so much and pls continue to inspire others with your writing

    much love and peace be with you always!
    mary

  13. 13 Franca Amico

    Caro Paolo
    scrivo dall’Italia. Sono felice di aver letto tutte le tue opere dalle quali spesso ho tratto ispirazione per le mie scritturew e nei miei “momenti bui”. Quando ti leggo vorrei sapere, a volte, se adesso, dopo anni di ricerca interiore, ti senti una persona realizzata nel proprio spirito. A me sembrerebbe di sì…io sono invece ancora in cammino e lontana dall’aver raggiunto una sia pur piccoila meta…
    Pace e affetto
    Franca

  14. 14 katrina

    Thank you for sharing these stories. There are stories everywhere we go! :) :)

    ~katrina

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